Preparing for the Starlet Suit Jacket

Starlet Suit Jacket: Source

I've signed up for the new Craftsy course Sew Retro: Starlet Suit Jacket taught by the fabulous Gretchen Hirsch! This jacket has princess seams and a flared waist, how could I resist? There is two tracks to the course; fusible or hand tailoring. I am very excited to go all out with the tailoring techniques. It is super easy to incorporate hand tailoring because Gertie has included separate pattern pieces for the hair canvas, and even for the muslin back-stay.

This will be my third experience with hand tailoring methods. Last year I sewed along with Gertie and the Lady Grey Sew Along, and this winter I sewed the houndstooth coat with many of the hand tailoring techniques. More pad stitching and hair canvas for me!

I had a livingsocial deal at Mood Fabrics, I headed straight there for my fabric. I was drawn to this beautiful seafoam color. It's a wool coating, which is a little on the thicker side, but that will just make the padstiching easier to hide. The lining is a rose print silk, which is perfect for spring.  The buttons, are from M&J, are match the fabric perfectly.

I cut out and sewed the muslin this morning and it is also perfect. I am the exact size 10, don't you love when projects work out like this? Has anyone else signed up for the Starlet Suit Jacket? If you haven't there is a 50% discount on Gertie's blog : Blog for Better Sewing.

Blue Sapphire Sencha

Happy Valentine's Day everyone! May I present to you my latest creation, Sencha by Colette Patterns in blue (to match my shoes). I used a gorgeous blue wool jersey, that I picked up at B&J's in NYC. Version 2 with the neckline tucks suited this fabric best.

The best part of this blouse is the buttons in the back. I had them custom made, by Pat's custom buttons and belts in Lodi, Ca. This is the second time I have used Pat's and I am officially obsessed. They add such a professional touch to any project, and it doesn't cost anymore than buying buttons elsewhere. I have 3 more projects that I'm planning using custom buttons, and even a belt!

Polka Dot Peony

I am in love with this dress. Colette Patterns, Peony is a boat neck dress with an A-line skirt. A very simple design, but a very classic look. I was inspired by a polka dot Kate Spade dress in a thick knit fabric (see it here on my pinterest). I found this similar fabric, a grey knit fabric with black flocked polka dots, at Harts Fabric.

The Peony pattern does not suggest a knit fabric, but it worked out really well for me. I just made a tiny adjustment to the sleeves, making them a closer fit to the arm. I also omitted the back zipper, and can just slip the dress over my head. I didn't include the cummerbund belt, which would have made it look even more like my inspiration, I already had a cute bow belt I could use.

Sewing with knits is really simple, I don't know why some people avoid it. I just made sure to use a needle designated for stretch, and then finished the seams with the serger. Stabilizing the shoulder seams, I used stay tape, is also a must, to keep it from stretching.

This is a really classic dress pattern, that can be adapted really easily. I plan on using it again for some silk crepe fruit print I have in my stash. I think I used around 2 yards of fabric, making this a very economical dress.